Big Deep Blue: Smoky, Colorful Party Eye (good for brown eyes and mono-lids)
Deep, rich-blue eye shadows tend to remind me of the 80’s, and regulation flight stewardess makeup. (Dear SIA, you know I’m talking about you…)
Well, this is the anti-thesis of that type of blue eye.
The key item you need to get this look is a glimmering blue-violet shadow that looks blue but shifts to a violet. The most well-known of these is MAC Cornflower pigment of course. I have not yet seen pressed shadows in this exact shade or finish, but some dupes or subtitutes in loose powder form are:
- L’oreal HIP pigment in Valiant (exact match and more affordable, but it’s not sold in every country)
- NYX Ultra Mania Pearl in Space (goes on lighter and more blue, and is less sparkly than Cornflower)
- Barry M Sapphire (close, but not as shiny, and needs a good base or it will dust off or look uneven)
Step 1: Dampen a brush slightly with a little mixing medium (I used MAC Fix+) before applying the loose blue-violet pigment across your lids from lashes up just past the socket line. This gives maximum color intensity and also helps to bring out the sheen of the pigment. This is especially important if you are using very silky and fine-grained dusts like Barry M, which do not contain silicones or lipid fillers to help the pigments stick to your skin.
Run what little remains on your brush along the outer 2/3 of the lower lash line as well.
Step 2: Dab your brush very lightly in a matte black shadow and darken the outer corners of your eyes. It’s best to start light, and slowly build up. Continue to gently buff and smoke out the black as you go along, until it extends in a very slight wing outwards. (Don’t overdo this, or bring the black too far inwards or you will muddy the bright indigo pigment from earlier!)
Step 3: Add a teal green pigment in the innermost corners just to add a bit more color to the look. You can skip this and just use the cornflower-blue shade all the way to the inner corners at Step 1, but I wanted a more colorful effect.
Step 4: Run a black kajal or kohl pencil along your water line and tide line, and then curl lashes and apply black mascara.
- When you work with loose pigments, you will get a lot of fallout under the eyes (look at pics from Step 2 and 3). You want to do the rest of your makeup AFTER your eye shadow, or at least don’t set anything with powder yet, so that you can use your foundation brush (with residual concealer and/or foundation on it) to pick up and remove any fallen bits of blue and black.
- Before mascara, you may want to go over the center of the lids with one more lightly dampened layer of the blue-violet to intensify the color since it might have faded from all the blending.
- Finish by misting your face with a setting spray (Model in a Bottle, MAC Fix+, or any non-alcoholic toner will do), just to make sure no pigments flake off onto your face later.
As this is a strong and eye, the most flattering way to finish this look is to pair with soft blush and lip color to finish!